Laying Wall Tiles: How to Do It Step by Step?

The installation of the wall tile in the bathroom must be done according to several points. You must already take the right type of tile, succeed in your layout, make sure to strengthen the tightness of the tiles laid, etc. It must also be remembered that tiling does not only play an aesthetic role in a bathroom. Indeed, the walls of a bathroom are much more waterproof and easy to maintain when they are covered with tiling.

However, the installation of tiles on a wall or the walls of a bathroom requires a lot of address in addition to the criteria already mentioned above. So, what are the steps to put tiles on the walls of his bathroom?

What type of tile will you take?

First of all, you need to know what kind of tiles are you going to take. Be aware that porous tiles are not made at all for damp rooms like the bathroom. So consider taking natural stone, porcelain stoneware or faience.

In terms of color, white and black will always be good solutions. However, you have the choice between all the colors possible as long as you know how to harmonize the colors of the floor and the wall.

Also, when making your choice, think about your budget. If you do not know how to establish a good budget, you can always ask for a quote example according to the different possible prices to a craftsman.

Prepare your site

Once your tiles are ready, you will have to prepare the site. Here are the rules to remember:

  • Prepare the wall by peeling off the wallpaper, stripping the paint or removing the old tiles;
  • Existing tiling can also be simply tipped to provide a good adhesion surface for new tiles if you do not want to remove everything;
  • Sand the wall so that it is smooth and ready to work;
  • Correct the irregularities;
  • Coat porous walls with waterproof insulation;
  • Remember to eliminate molds and fungi;
  • Before any work, go from the primer to the walls to be tiled and allow to dry for 12 to 24 hours.
  • Protect the surroundings
  • In the preparation of the site, we must also think about the protection of the surroundings. In order to avoid cleaning after installation, you must indeed anticipate. As part of a bathroom renovation, this step is essential.

For this, remember to protect the floor and the different devices in the bathroom with tarpaulin and other types of protection.

Bring together your tools

When you have properly prepared your site and assembled the necessary tiles, you need to put together your tools. To put the tiles in a bathroom, you would need:

  • Bat tiler and tile;
  • Tile adhesive ready for use;
  • Braces;
  • Sponge and cloth;
  • Tiler’s mallet;
  • Spirit level ;
  • Abrasive paper ;
  • Parrot clip, needle, roller and notched spatula;
  • Spatula for jointing and cleats.
  • The work to be done

Now that you have all your tools and your job site is well prepared, you can start the work.

Put the cleats

In order for your tiles to be skillful, you must first put the cleats. When laying the horizontal batten, go off the ground taking the height of a tile added to two braces. Record the measurements on the wall by marking with a pencil. Put the cleat in place horizontally according to the mark taken. Be careful, the top of the cleat must touch the mark and to have the exact levels, use your spirit level.

For the vertical cleat, mark the wall at a distance that corresponds to one tile and two braces starting from the corner of the room. The vertical cleat should be fixed perpendicular to the horizontal one.

NB If you have 10 cm square tiles, the ideal spacing is 2 to 3 mm. With a medium-sized tile (20 cm) it will take a spacing of 3 to 5 mm and for the tile with a large format allow a spacing of 5 mm.

The laying of the first tiles

To glue the tiles, you have to take your notched spatula and tile adhesive. Then brush a surface with 4 tiles. Lay your first tile at the intersection of the two cleats. Tap and tap with the mallet. Continue the pose following the same process.

The continuity of the pose

Continue laying your tiles in a vertical line. Take reference to the vertical cleat and go back up. Never forget to use the mallet and the bat to reposition and firmly push the tile. Attention, it takes a drying time of one hour before removing the cleats.

Our Tips for Cleaning Bathroom Seals

Cleaning Bathroom Seals

o keep tile joints in your nickel bathroom, you need daily cleaning. However, for lack of time, it is possible that one zaps completely this gesture when one does the cleaning. As a result, the joint may become moldy, yellowed or blackened at worst. So how do you keep your little bathroom on top?

Cleaning Bathroom Seals

One rule is to clean the joints of his bathroom, we use good cleaning products. Who says shock cleaners do not necessarily say luxury products. Attention, we can overcome his expectations with the house tips.

Use his closet

As said before, home products can be used to overcome the blackened, yellowed or moldy seal. So, do not worry, just open your closet and find our timeless cleaning products. These products are:

  • Baking soda ;
  • White vinegar and dishwashing liquid;
  • Ammonia.

For the cleaning itself, you will need:

  • Some water ;
  • A sponge ;
  • A toothbrush that is no longer used or will only be used for cleaning!

Baking soda and white vinegar

You like to clean, but sometimes you forget to take care of your bathroom joints. No worries, take out your packet of baking soda and your bottle of white vinegar. After a month of neglected maintenance, you can catch up with the mixture of baking soda and white vinegar.

To do this, simply mix four tablespoons of baking soda in ten centiliters of white vinegar. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle. Close the cap well and lather a little. Then you only have to spray the mixture on the joints. Wait twenty-four hours before rubbing and rinsing.

White vinegar and dishwashing liquid

This tip is suitable for bathroom joints that have not been serviced for a maximum of three months. To make this cleaner, mix a glass of vinegar with a glass of dishwashing liquid. As the product is soft and not likely to discolor the tiles, you can use it on faience.

The cleaning will be done by simply sprinkling the parts to be cleaned with water to start. Then apply the mixture over the entire tile surface with a sponge. After that, scrub the joints of the tiles, bathtub and faucet with a toothbrush. To finish, rinse.


Ammonia is a little more potent than the previous mixture. Put goggles on a mouth mask and dish gloves when you use it. In addition, you will not dilute the product this time. So, to clean the joints of the shower tiles with ammonia, soak a sponge with the liquid. Then rub the joints with the sponge. Finally, rinse thoroughly with tap water. This cleaning technique is good for joints that have not been serviced for six months. It is very effective against molds and fungi of all kinds.

Clean with a suitable product

You can also clean your bathroom seals with a special cleaning product. Indeed, you can take for example the cleaning spray KF Sani-Joint Lifthofin . This product is bottled in a five hundred milliliter vaporizer.

This Lifthonin brand shower cleaner eliminates mold and algae. It will rid you of unpleasant black marks on the joints and sanitary devices of the shower. This product is even suitable for silicone bath seals.

Attention, it will be necessary to put gloves when using this cleaner. In addition, rinse well after cleaning.

In which case change his bathroom seal?

At some point, you’ll have to think about changing the joints in your bathroom. This rule applies in particular to silicone gaskets. After three to five years, you have to replace the silicone gaskets. However, if you take good care of it, you will only have to change your joints after six or eight years.

Then, it will change the silicone seal when it becomes black mold and impossible to resurface. To replace the silicone seals, you just have to follow the advice of using your product. If you have some doubts, you can always seek the help of a professional. However, rest assured, the installation of the silicone seal is quite easy and does not require great DIY skills

The Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Right Paint

Guide to Choosing the Right Paint

Unsure which paint is best for your project? Don’t skip the research. The type of paint you choose is just as important as the color and can have a major effect on the character of your room and the vibe you want to achieve. Read on to learn more about each type of paint — and potentially prevent a time- and money-consuming mistake.

Guide to Choosing the Right Paint


The majority of wall paint sold today is water-based, primarily because of its ease of use. If your surface has been previously coated with an oil-based product, be cautious when switching to water-based paint as it may have trouble sticking. In this situation, Sherwin-Williams recommends washing the surface and then roughening it all over with a medium to smooth grit sandpaper—making it clean, dry, and dull in order to prevent peeling of the new coat.

For those instances when an oil-based paint would traditionally be preferable, but you desire a water-based product, a number of companies have introduced “waterborne enamels” or “waterborne alkyds.” These paints look and behave much like oil-based options because they have good leveling qualities for a smooth finish.

Advantages of water-based paints

  • doesn’t require a pre-treatment
  • no mildew growth
  • low VOCs (low levels of toxic emissions)
  • easy cleanup with water
  • quick drying
  • an elastic, flexible finish resistant to cracking
  • can be used on almost all surfaces
  • stable color over time, doesn’t yellow or fade in sunlight


Oil-based paint can be used on almost all surfaces and is praised for its high durability and rich finish. Still, be cautious, as oil paint emits strong fumes that can be overwhelming, and the paint cannot be washed with water. If you choose oil paint, solvents like turpentine are necessary for washing brushes or other materials with unwanted paint on them.

Advantages of oil-based paints

  • attractive gloss
  • good for high-moisture rooms (ex. bathroom or kitchen)
  • longer dry time (good for making fixes)
  • good “leveling” (brush strokes fill themselves in to create a smooth finish)
  • hard, durable finish


Sheen options vary by manufacturer but share some common characteristics. As durability improves across all sheen levels with newer paints, many people are finding creative ways to mix and match them. “We’ve noticed that customers are becoming more experimental in their use of paint finish, to create real impact and texture within a scheme,” says Farrow & Ball Director Sarah Cole. “Try painting a stripe of full gloss on a matte wall in the same color to create a striking, textured look,” she suggests.

Matte paint:

  • is the least reflective sheen available
  • has a velvety texture
  • helps hides imperfections in walls and ceilings
  • offers great depth of color
  • is generally considered the standard sheen for walls
  • can sometimes be difficult to clean

Eggshell and satin paint (satin is slightly glossier than eggshell):

  • have some reflectivity
  • offer improved durability
  • are frequently used in demanding environments, like kitchens and bathrooms,
  • where easy cleanup without a highly glossy finish is desired

Semi-gloss and gloss paint:

  • great for kitchens, doors, window trim, accent walls, and bathrooms
  • are the most reflective sheens
  • are highly durable and stand up to multiple cleanings
  • are traditionally used on baseboards, moldings, and doors
  • can make a statement, but also highlight imperfections

The Best Way to Hang a Mirror to Elevate Your Home

The Best Way to Hang a Mirror to Elevate Your Home

A mirror is one of those pieces in a home that combines both decor and function. Along with letting you know if there’s lipstick on your teeth (yes, it happens), it has a way of making small spaces feel larger and dark rooms appear lighter. But before it does any of that, you have to get it up on the wall. We invited experts to share their pointers on how to hang a mirror (as well as where to do it, and when to bring in a pro) so that you can get it up with ease and get to the best part quickly: Admiring your work.

The Best Way to Hang a Mirror to Elevate Your Home


You should know: Not all mirrors are meant to be hung. “Some are designed to be leaners,” explains Robert A. Downs of in Los Angeles, who has expertly hung mirrors and artwork for stars and design stores ranging from Heidi Klum and Ginnifer Goodwin to Grace Home Furnishings. “For these pieces, it’s noted on the back, and if you do hang it and it breaks, a manufacturer’s liability won’t cover it.”

A cable wire hung across a single hook or nail is out of the question when it comes to safely hanging a mirror. Instead, Downs explains that each “D hook” on the back of the mirror needs its own hook in the wall.

Consider a tilt: Jen Going, of the eponymous interior design firm and GoingHome furniture line, recommends hanging a mirror high on the wall at a downward tilt so it reflects more of the room.


In an entryway: The foyer is the first impression guests have of your aesthetic. Placing a mirror directly above a console table adds a welcoming touch to your space in an instant. Plus, it’s the perfect opportunity to have one final look before heading out the door.

Above the mantel: Position it at least 4-5 inches above the top of the mantel. “But depending on the thickness of the frame, you may want to go higher so you don’t get a dark shadow cast on your decor,” notes Downs.

In the bathroom: While many bathroom sinks will come with frameless mirrors mounted on the wall with adhesive, Downs recommends bringing in a professional to add a frame around that mirror for added visual interest. (A less expensive option than breaking the mirror off the wall and starting from scratch!)

Over difficult surfaces: “Make sure to pick up special drill bits made exclusively for tile, glass, or concrete,” advises Downs. Then resume hanging with appropriate hardware as if you were hanging on drywall.

On the door: Choose a full-length mirror and position it so it takes up as much of the door as possible. Mirror clips are an easy way to execute this, but Downs recommends confirming that you have a solid core door to work with so hardware will fasten in properly.


In a living room with southern exposure, you’ll want to make the most of cozy afternoon light, so place the mirror on the wall opposite the window, advises Going. If it’s a bedroom, or somewhere you want to capitalize on morning light, try the adjacent window.

The dining room is one of the most popular spaces for dramatic mirrors, especially if there’s a beautiful chandelier to reflect. But, be mindful. “If it’s a chandelier with an exposed bulb, the reflection can be glaring. Instead, try an antiqued mirror to diffuse it,” says Going.

Both Going and Downs agree that an entry hall is one of the best places in the house for a mirror. “Not only is it a beautiful accent, it’s a tool to make a space look larger and brighter,” she says.


Adhere to your decorating style. If your style is more modern, overlook a rustic, wood frame and opt for a metal design with a sleek frame. Your aesthetic still matters when it comes to choosing the right style (and color) mirror for your home.

Try a grouping. Hanging a group of mirrors on a wall is an easy way to add character to space. Just make sure to hang them in the same manner as artwork, where the proportion is taken into consideration. Having equal space between each mirror is key.

Tall rooms benefit from vertical mirrors, while long rooms do better with a horizontally-set mirror, advises Downs.

Think twice before installing a mirror on anything that has a lot of movement, says Downs. Another risky place that you shouldn’t try on your own: Above the bed. If you’re considering that, you should hire a pro to get the job done safely.
A bold move deserves bold execution: Downs often works with designers or clients to put a mirror over another mirror, accomplishing the idea by installing the front-most mirror on a cable system that can then be wrapped in rope, or other decorative materials.